If you’re interested in adding niacinamide to your skincare regimen, you may have heard about the ingredient’s ability to improve the appearance of skin texture and fade hyperpigmentation. You may also know that it has anti-inflammatory properties and can minimize the appearance of pores. However, you may have also noticed that it causes breakouts and redness for some people, especially when the concentration is high or the skin is sensitive. This raises the question: does niacinamide cause purging?
Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide or vitamin B3, is a common skin-care ingredient found in serums. It’s generally well-tolerated and won’t cause irritation or sensitivity in most skin types.
It works by reducing the amount of sebum produced, minimizing the appearance of pores, and enhancing cell turnover. It can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by encouraging the growth of collagen. It can also reduce the appearance of discoloration and hyperpigmentation by regulating melanosome transfer, which is how pigment is transferred from cells to the surface of the skin. Niacinamide is a great addition to any routine and can be used in conjunction with other active ingredients that may cause purging, such as retinol.
Niacinamide can also be used to treat rosacea and is sometimes prescribed for type 1 diabetes because it may protect the pancreatic cells that produce insulin, though this benefit requires more research. Additionally, it can reduce the occurrence of diabetic ketoacidosis, which is when the body’s cells break down and release glucose into the bloodstream.
As a result, BHA with niacinamide is a good addition to any routine for oily or acne-prone skin types, but it’s important to keep in mind that high concentrations or excessive use can irritate the skin. Dr Rachel Ho, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of The Ordinary, recommends a lower concentration of 4 or 5 percent of niacinamide in products as higher concentrations can trigger the appearance of inflammatory acne and pustules.
When used in combination with retinol, niacinamide can be more likely to cause purging. This is because retinol accelerates cell turnover, which can force out clogged pores and can look like inflammatory acne or whiteheads. Niacinamide, on the other hand, doesn’t cause a rapid increase in cell turnover and therefore is unlikely to lead to purging.
If you do experience a reaction to niacinamide, it’s usually the result of another ingredient in the product. Check your ingredients list to see if the product contains comedogenic ingredients, such as oleic acid or butyl stearate, which may aggravate your skin and cause breakouts and redness. It’s also worth trying a smaller dose of the ingredient and using it for a few days to see how your skin reacts before increasing your usage. After that, it’s important to follow a strict skincare routine that includes cleansing, exfoliation, toning, and moisturizing. Remember to apply a broad spectrum SPF daily to protect against UV damage. You can also add a serum to your routine to target specific concerns, such as acne or wrinkles.
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