What Do Acids Do for the Skin?

In the ever-evolving world of skincare, the use of facial acids has gained widespread popularity due to their remarkable benefits in treating various skin concerns. Facial acids, often referred to as chemical exfoliants, are renowned for their exceptional ability to accelerate the shedding of dead skin cells, thereby promoting skin renewal and rejuvenation. These acids work by dissolving the bond that holds these cells together, resulting in smoother, more even-toned skin and an improvement in overall skin texture. This exfoliating action helps to unclog pores, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and diminish hyperpigmentation, making facial acids a versatile tool in combating various skin concerns.

Common Facial Acids and Their Benefits

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

• Glycolic acid: This AHA is widely known for its exfoliating properties, effectively reducing the signs of aging, enhancing skin texture, and addressing hyperpigmentation issues. Glycolic acid is a top choice for individuals seeking to combat the effects of sun damage and improve overall skin tone.
• Lactic acid: Another AHA, lactic acid, is popular for its gentle exfoliating properties, making it a suitable option for individuals with sensitive skin. It aids in smoothing out rough textures and is particularly beneficial for addressing common skin issues without causing excessive irritation.
• Kojic acid: Kojic acid is known for its ability to inhibit the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color, making it a popular ingredient in products targeted at addressing hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

Salicylic Acid: As a BHA, salicylic acid is renowned for its ability to penetrate deep into the pores, making it effective in unclogging pores and reducing acne, making it a popular choice for individuals dealing with blackheads, whiteheads, and mild to moderate acne.

Other Facial Acids

Azelaic acid: This dicarboxylic acid serves as a potent agent in addressing skin redness, rosacea, and melasma, and is particularly suitable for individuals with sensitive skin, including those who are pregnant.

True Acids vs. Fake Acids?

Although some ingredients have "acid" in their names, they are not actually "acids."

• Hyaluronic acid: While not a hydroxy acid, hyaluronic acid is essential for maintaining skin hydration and suppleness, making it a valuable addition to skincare routines focused on anti-aging and combating dryness. In cosmetic formulas, it often exists in the form of sodium hyaluronate.
• Ascorbic acid: Ascorbic acid is more commonly known as vitamin C. It can reduce melanin and protect collagen against aging. However, because ascorbic acid (the original vitamin C) is relatively unstable, easily oxidized and deteriorated, and easily decomposed by light, many skin care products use vitamin C derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and tetraisopalmitoyl ascorbic acid as an alternative ingredient.
• Ferulic acid: Ferulic acid is a powerful antioxidant. In skincare, it is known for its ability to neutralize free radicals, defend against environmental stressors, and enhance the stability and effectiveness of other antioxidants, particularly vitamins C and E.
• Tranexamic acid: Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, commonly used in dermatology and skincare for its skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory properties.

Precautions for Using Facial Acids

While the benefits of individual facial acids are notable, it is of paramount importance not to mix certain types of facial acids, particularly AHAs and BHAs, without proper professional guidance. Mixing these acids can lead to over-exfoliation, skin irritation, and compromised barrier function, resulting in adverse skin reactions.

Here are some tips not to mix facial acids:

• Do not combine salicylic acid with any other acids simultaneously, as it may result in severe skin irritation.
• It is advisable to avoid using salicylic acid with products containing niacinamide.
• Do not mix glycolic acid or lactic acid with ascorbic acid (vitamin C), as this can diminish the benefits of ascorbic acid before it has a chance to take effect.
• It is best to refrain from using AHAs in conjunction with retinol.